Paske Hut from the Rainbow Road
A trip to Paske hut from the Rainbow Road is a great summer overnight adventure. Close enough to Nelson for a weekend and remote enough to feel like a complete getaway. We picked a weekend in March when the rivers were low and the daytime temperatures ideal for tramping. There were plenty of rivers crossings so be prepared for a wet boot trip.
The Paske Route from the Rainbow Road is the easiest way of getting into Paske hut. If you’re feeling more adventurous and have more time, there are several intrepid options over high passes through the +2000m peaks of the Turk Ridge, St Arnaud Range and St James Range.
Getting There Pask Hut
The walk starts close to the confluence of the Wairau and Rainbow rivers, about 30 kms (or an hour and fifteen minutes drive) down the Rainbow Road. This beautiful, unsealed road runs north/south through the Rainbow Station from St Arnaud to Hanmer Springs and is open between Boxing Day and Easter. Access is via the SH63 St Arnaud to Blenheim road at the northern end. Part way along at the old Rainbow homestead we paid the $60 vehicle charge which goes towards the costs of maintaining the road for public use.
You will need a high clearance 4WD vehicle and there is a large ford to cross before you get to the homestead (the Subaru Forester was fine in low flow). For more information see the DOC website and check out the Rainbow Station website for the status of the road.
Timings
Out: 6 hrs 10 mins including lunch
– Rainbow River to Rainbow hut: 2 hrs 11.30 am – 1.30 pm
– Rainbow hut to Paske Creek confluence: 55 mins 2.05 pm – 3 pm
– Paske River to Paske hut 2 hrs 40 mins 3 pm to 5.40 pm
Return: 4 hrs 50 mins including a 15 min break
Towards the Rainbow River
As usual, we stopped at the magnificent Wakefield Bakery to stock up on goodies for the weekend. During the journey, we contemplated the invention of the Pie Finder app. It would allow users/customers to score pies at different establishments by various qualities, whilst being linked to some kind of real-time stock inventory versus potential customer location, so you know how many of your preferred pies are left, and how many others have expressed an interest in them e.g. one mince & cheese is left and two people are heading towards it but you are the closest, so you can be assured (aside from a rogue decision by someone at the counter) that you’ll get it. It certainly requires further thought. Thankfully there is never that dilemma at 9 am at the Wakey, so we left happy.
Driving down the Rainbow Road was painless and when we got to the ford at Six Mile Creek it was running pretty low. We moved a couple of large river rocks to ensure we got decent clearance and bumped our way across. The army was conducting some manoeuvres in the area and we passed various groups of young people who looked like they’d be glad of a pie from the Wakey Bakey.
Further on, we enjoyed a chat with the lovely chap at the old Rainbow homestead, paid our toll and let ourselves through the gate. Because we weren’t driving the full distance and were returning the next day we didn’t get charged twice for the inward/outward journey.
I was also pleased that the giant bull we’d seen loitering near the gate by Connor’s Creek last time we biked down here, wasn’t around this time.
Rainbow River Paske Hut
Just past Stockyard Face and the shed on the left, we turned right onto a side road and parked off the track beneath the pylons. Tiny bumblebees were out in force, so we carefully double-checked the car and our packs before we left.
At 11.30 am we made our way down the 4WD track by the willow trees on the true left of the Rainbow River.
There isn’t a marked track up the Rainbow River. We initially stayed on the true left on the grassy riverbank, then when things got a bit boggy underfoot crossed the river and headed through the matagauri and onto the beautiful open grassland with great views upriver. The wide braided river valley stretched ahead of us and at 2114m Mount Iris dominated the views in the distance. We enjoyed the easy walking, crossing river braids here and there but generally keeping to the middle of the river gravels on the true left of the river.
We saw plenty of sign but no actual Canada geese and wondered if the hunters had been in. The cattle were few and far between too, with just a small inquisitive group who lined up for a look at us a couple of hours into the walk. There was no need to hurry so we took in in the views and enjoyed the sunshine. After a few kilometres, as we neared Mt Iris we passed a beautiful waterfall tumbling from a side creek in the forest on the true left.
Rainbow Hut (private)
The valley up Tanekaha Creek beneath Mt Iris was beautiful. Here, the river channel hugged the true right bank across the gravels from us. Just when we had just found a 4WD track on the true left we remembered we wanted to check out the private Rainbow hut on the true right. The hut isn’t on the topo map, but we saw some willow trees across the river and headed for them.
After a short bash through the low matagauri we crossed the Rainbow River. Here it formed a single, narrow channel and we crossed as a pair with the water up to my thighs. Following our noses we found Rainbow hut at 1.30 pm, a couple of hours after setting off. Although the bank outside offered some nice views, it was teeming with wasps, so we took our lunch in the hut. Today’s ‘guest food’ was Nibblish gently baked pineapple chunks – an absolute winner which will make a return in future.
The Gorge
We left Rainbow hut at 2.10 pm. After crossing back to the true left of the Rainbow River and bashing our way back to the 4WD track again, we found a large orange marker. The wide, stony track headed gently up to about 80m above a gorge. The high point offered great views of the mountains which had closed in, on either side of us.
On the downward side, we got our first glimpse of the Paske Valley up ahead. The track opened to a wonderful wide valley where the Paske and Belgey rivers meet the Rainbow. To our left was a beautiful gorge. We walked out onto the rock for a better look. The river below was channelled through the rock and shone in deep bright blue pools before rushing out into rapids. It was a magical spot.
Rainbow, Begley, Paske Rivers
In the wide valley beneath us, the Rainbow continued ahead, the Begley came in from the north (our right) and the Paske curled away to the southwest (to our left) across the grassy terraces.
The 4WD track continued down to the river and onto grassy flats. The topo map showed the Begley Route continuing on the true left of the Rainbow for about a kilometre before joining up with the Paske Route. We followed the route to the crossing point on the map more for a look at the state of the track than anything else.
On our return we took a more direct route straight across the terraces from Paske Creek back to the 4WD track at the gorge, chopping off the right angle and saving about 30 minutes.
The rough track along the Begely Route climbed up into the bush and sidled above the river. I surprised a large dark possum, which lumbered its way up a tree. We eyeballed each other. It was only later when we saw bait stations and signage, that we realised there was control going on in the area.
The Paske Route
We crossed the Rainbow River at 3 pm, where the Begley and Paske Routes met on the map, heading across and up the grassy terraces above the true left of Paske Creek. Staying above the bush line to our left (which dropped down to the river) and a tongue of bush to our right (hugging the ridge) we followed various cattle tracks through the manuka and high tussocks up and onto a spectacular high grassy terrace.
The ridge up to the Paske mountains to the left above us was splendid and we made half-hearted comments about if we had time tomorrow we should really climb up there.
If there was a track/route or any markers here we hadn’t found them. It was easy enough to follow our own path. We continued across the grassy slopes crossing just one small side stream before a steady climb up to 1120m. Walking closer to the mountain and the 1140 contour, we ended up at a gully and a steep drop-off which was too sketchy to climb down into. We checked the map, realised we were too high and backtracked a hundred metres before dropping steeply down through a small section of bush. We ended up on a track which headed down towards Paske Creek.
Towards Paske Hut
From here it was easy enough to follow the occasionally marked route as it undulated along the true left of Paske Creek.
Cattle had been here recently. It was rutted and boggy in places and the surface water was glossy with the sheen of cowpat. There were a number of spots where we found ourselves perching on wobbly, lumpy bits to avoid cowpat-strewn boggy holes. This section took longer than expected, mostly due to my terrible balance and also my being a bit of a princess and not wanting to get a leg full of cow sh*t. Don’t let this put you off though. The views of the Turk Ridge were amazing and got better and better as we headed towards the hut.
At 5.10 pm a couple of kilometres along from finding the track, there was an obvious crossing point to the true right of Paske Creek. After crossing, the easier option would have been to head up onto the terrace immediately (as we found out on our return). Instead, we sidled around to a side stream and bashed our way up it, which was slightly more inconvenient.
The final kilometre to Paske hut climbed very gently away from the river and around a sweeping bend, opening up magnificent views of Belvedere Peak at the head of the valley.
Paske Hut
We arrived at the very tidy six-bed Paske hut at 5.40 pm. It is situated just below the bush line on the grassy flats at 1130m and has great views back down the valley.
There was still plenty of sunshine left. We wandered down to the river to collect water and have a wash before taking a seat outside and soaking up the evening sun. Paske hut has the added bonus of a couple of pairs of hut wellies, which we used to cross the wet ground for the short trip to the loo.
When the temperature dropped we went in for dinner and I introduced Rich to our second guest food of the trip – a packet of Twiglets. A crunchy British snack which looks like small twigs and tastes like marmite. Just like Marmite, you either love or hate twiglets. Rich hated them.
Day 2 – Paske Hut to the Rainbow
A Rainy Day
We knew light rain was coming and the forecast was spot on. Low clouds clung to the mountains when we woke giving the valley a quiet, moody atmosphere. It was gently spitting when we left the hut at 9 am. This provided the perfect opportunity for me to try out my new summer rain jacket, a Marmot Precip Eco.
Heading back down the valley we turned to get a final look at the hut just as a beautiful rainbow framed it for us. We watched, mesmerised as the rainbow developed, widening into a second, before giving up and disappearing.
Paske Hut to the Rainbow River
Given the weather and lack of views, we made much faster work of the walk back out. The rain never really came in force but the gentle spit continued.
By 10.30 am we were high above Paske Creek on the grassy terrace again. Unfortunately, my wonderful new rain jacket didn’t cut the mustard at all. It was already soaked through at the cuffs and I could feel my clothes were wet around my shoulders – how disappointing.
** Update re. the rain jacket – Marmot were happy to exchange the Precip Eco for the Minimalist Pro.
We made our way back down and again followed various cattle tracks through the manuka to pop out at the base of the ridge into the wide valley with the Begley and the Rainbow. Picking a line down the terrace to Paske Creek, we crossed it and headed across the grassy flats to where the 4WD track climbed into the bush above the gorge on the Rainbow. Forty minutes later we crossed the river and climbed up the rocky 4WD track.
The Rainbow River
At 11.30 am we stopped at the high point for a damp 15-minute break, tidying up the giant Eccles cake from the bakery yesterday. We headed back down the slippery, rocky track and were back into the wide valley of the Rainbow just before midday. The 4WD track continued for some time on the true left before we lost it after crossing a river braid.
As we walked away from the mountains the gentle rain stopped and the sun made an occasional brief appearance, illuminating the wet tussocks with a brilliant glow.
It took us just under a couple of hours to walk back down the Rainbow. A nervous-looking party of cows waited by the willow trees. We gave them a wide berth before crossing a final river braid and heading up to the car, where we came within a couple of metres of an enormous bull lounging close to the gate. I’m not sure who was more surprised to see who, but it was too late for me to be terrified.
Check out some other tramps around the area by clicking the links below. Hoping to get back into the Rainbow next summer to explore some more!
Well described and photographed trip. Cautionary tale about the jacket. Did you take it back to the shop? Was it beading – showing the DWR was working? I and my partner have had the older (not Eco) jackets and not had that issue when new. I see they have a life-long guarantee but couldn’t find details. I did find this though…”All Marmot products are warranted against defects in materials and construction for the practical lifetime of the product. Our warranty applies to the original owner of the product (receipt may be required) and does not apply to normal wear and tear, improper care, misuse, accident, neglect or the natural breakdown of materials over time. Marmot will evaluate warranty claims and determine at its discretion to repair, replace or refund.”
Hi Honora, Yes I’m exchanging for their Minimalist Pro – which is more robust apparently
Good stuff. What was your winter jacket that performed so well on the Waingaro trip?
My winter jacket is an Earth Sea Sky Hydrophobia.
That’s a real shame about the jacket. I see it is recycled fabric and they avoid using certain (I presume nasty) chemicals in the waterproofing. I like that idea, so hopefully it is a manufacturing issue and they can provide you with a replacement that performs better. it would be nice if we could all start buying more eco-friendly gear for our tramping. But it’s got to be reliable!
Cheers Adam, yes, I’m exchanging it for a Minimalist Pro