Today’s distance walked – approx 14 kms (8.6 miles).
Ascent – approx 445m (1460 ft).
I woke at 6am this morning and took my breakfast equipment to the (indoor/outddoor) lounge as it was spitting with rain. It rained on and off during the night, so when I finished breakfast I wiped down my tent and packed it still damp. I left at 8.30am. Despite the fact the campsite was packed, hardly anyone was up yet! I suppose everyone is on their holidays 😉 plus England won the football on penalties last night (!) so no doubt there were a few sore head around the place.
I walked the short way back to the golf course at Carlyon a Bay and walked alongside it for 30 minutes or so before arriving at the old China clay works. From here it was an in uninspiring walk into Par, then back out to Par beach, which I reached at 9.30. This little stretch is part of the Par ‘clay trails’. China clay was brought here from Cornish mines by train, then it was packed and loaded into ships. In 1885 over 86,000 tons of China clay were shipped from Par harbour.
The signage wasn’t all that good this morning, so I kept my phone/map handy and referred to it quite a bit.
The only people out on Par beach this morning were dog walkers – a hardy bunch, braving the gloomy weather. It was still threatening to rain and a good breeze was blowing.
The climb out of Par wasn’t too bad, and after only a short time, it dropped down into the beautiful, old, tiny village and cove of Polkerris. It is said that Daphne du Maurier stayed at the Rashleigh Arms pub here for a short time, when she was writing ‘Rebecca’ (one of my favourite books) and she lived in Menabilly just up the hill, until she died in 1989. She used much of this local area as inspiration for the novel, and I wanted to stay a while and soak it in, so I ordered a hot choc with whipped cream and a bacon bap from the beachside cafe and enjoyed the view..
After Polkerris the trail climbed up through a lovely woodland and onto the cliffs again. From here I could see back out to Dodman Point, and in the far distance I think, The Lizard. I rounded
Gribbin Head, which has a 25m (84ft) red and white ‘day mark’ for ships in the bay to spot. In 1588 this site was used as a beacon to help inform London of the approaching Spanish Armada.
The trail went down to a lovely cove at Polridmouth, where I spotted this beautiful butterfly.
More ups and downs later and I rounded the headland at At Catherine’s Point. The view took my breath away! I knew I was coming to the River Fowey, but I didn’t expect it to be so beautiful! Just upriver from me was Readymoney Cove and Fowey, and on the Eastern side of the river, the village of Polruan.
I took the ferry across to Polruan at 1pm, and followed the trail up and around the coast for a short time. I am making it a short day today, to have a rest, and I called thePolruan Holidays campsite who had a pitch for me. I arrived at 2pm and had a look around their little shop and info centre.
My hiker hunger (junk food cravings) have well and truly kicked in now after 3+ weeks on trail, so I bought a ginger beer and some chippies. I’m currently enjoying an afternoon of leisure 🙂