Earnslaw Burn Track

Earnslaw Burn Track

The Earnslaw Burn Track is a stunning tramp, which is certainly up there for the wow factor. The track sidles through the forest (DOC land) above the true left of the Earnslaw Burn for about 8.5 km before breaking out into a grassy valley (which is private land – Earnslaw Station) for a further 4.5 km or so, to the base of Mt Earnslaw and the Earnslaw Glacier. Allow for at least 12 hours return.

**EDIT January 2025 – Camping is prohibited on Earnslaw Station land. The track has become increasingly popular in recent years and the fragile environment is suffering. Check out Herenga ā Nuku/Outdoor Access maps, and search for Earnslaw Burn. Using the legend for details, you’ll see how far the DOC conservation land extends (not far past the rock biv). This means no camping far out of the forest, on the grassy flats of the open valley or near the mountain/glacier.  Please remember to leave no trace and pack out what you pack in, including toilet paper, tissues or wet wipes. Be especially careful where and how you toilet.

Getting There

The Earnslaw Burn track starts from Lovers Leap Road, about 20 minutes from Glenorchy on the road to Paradise. Google maps will get you there, but about 4 km after the Routeburn turnoff take the right-hand fork by a silver letterbox, then cross a small stream. The parking spot is about 1.5 km further down on the left, before the big bend. There were about six vehicles in the parking area when I arrived (just outside of the school holidays on a weekday at the end of January). There are no toilets at the car park, so stop in Glenorchy on your way through.

The Track and Timings Earnslaw Burn Track

DOC classifies the track as Advanced and suggests the timing as 4-6 hours one way to the viewpoint at the bush line. Allow 2 hours one way to the glacier from here.

From the DOC time, I gathered the track would be slow going. Check out the DOC website for the Earnslaw Burn Track noting any DOC advice regarding the state of the track. ** December 2024: Multiple slips. Caution is required in heavy rain. Navigation may be more difficult. Expect longer walking times.

On the topo map, the track looks like a reasonably straightforward sidle and you only gain around 500m elevation overall. However, on the ground you’re either going up, going down, picking your way up/down/over tree roots, crossing little streams in gullies, hopping over logs, rocks, boulders or mud, balancing, scrambling up, stepping down, sliding down, avoiding drops, clinging to branches or bits of foliage.. or all those at once. Most people I spoke with on the track when I walked (January 2022) said the tramp took much longer than expected.

I walked the Earnslaw Burn track after spending most of the summer tramping, so my fitness was excellent. I was up for a sporty mission and got stuck into it, taking 3.5 hours from the car park to the bush line with a 10-minute break. This was during dry, summer conditions. If you go when it’s wet, expect the track to take much longer than planned – the tree roots and gullies will be slippery and treacherous.

The section from the bush edge to the base of the glacier took me a further 1 hour 45 minutes one way, with plenty of stops to chat to other trampers.

Earnslaw Burn Car Park into the Forest

**EDIT January 2025 – Before heading off, check out the new signage at the start of the track.

I started walking at 8 am, crossed the gate at the car park and headed across to the trees. There was a large marker and a marker in the distance. (Don’t head down to the left – towards the river). The track began with a 100m climb through the beech forest, easing into a gentler 200m climb over time. There was a short section through grass and ferns early on, so be prepared for wet feet if it’s a dewy morning. 

The track was well-marked and easy to follow. After the first 45 minutes or so it became more tree-rooty and a little slower going.  There was nothing too difficult in the first hour, and at 8.50 am there was a nice viewpoint looking up the valley.

I arrived at the first river marked on the topo map at 9.45 am. Shortly afterwards, after a sketchy little gully, I lost the track momentarily whilst not paying attention to the markers, and had to backtrack after finding myself perched on a little ledge above a drop nowhere to go.

Mid Forest

The middle section of the forest was probably the most technical part, including crossing a small slip. I had a quick break after that at 10.05 am. I had walked approx 4.5 km in just over two hours. The section remained slow-going and included a couple of nasty little drops into gullies, but thankfully with a couple of well-used branches to lower myself down with. I heard the first of a few helicopters flying to the glacier.

The final 30 minutes in the forest was comparatively easier. I enjoyed the occasional tantalising views of high peaks as the trees thinned. By 11.15 am cliffs rose to the left as the valley closed in, and the first of many beautiful waterfalls appeared from them, high above. I heard a Kea call in the distance. By now it was only half a kilometre to the bush line and only one more gnarly little climb-down before I found myself out in the open at 11.30 am.

From the Bush Line

Upon checking the map, I realised I already passed the rock biv on the opposite side of the river. Once out of the forest, the view that greets you from the bush line is the imposing, slanted walls of Turret Head (2350m) and the peaks of Mt Earnslaw in the distance (2820/30m)- quite the spectacle. I took a look at the tall tussocks, alpine bushes and spiky spaniard, and put my long gaiters on – within five minutes I took them off again as it was far too hot!

Out of the forest, the track wasn’t marked but fairly obvious and easy to pick up, still on the true left of the Earnslaw Burn. (I didn’t need to cross the river at all.) There were a couple of flat, camping options not far from the bush edge.  Not long after, there was a tricky little sidle up and over the bank, including a slippery little hydro slide you wouldn’t want to fall down.

*EDIT January 2025 – Note that you are now on Earnslaw Station Land and camping further towards the glacier is prohibited.

Towards Mt Earnslaw

As I rounded the sweeping bend Mt Earnslaw and the full glacier came into view. I had seen plenty of photos, but nothing prepares you for its magnitude! It’s breathtaking. I picked up a track weaving across the muddy grassy flats.

I later took a higher route through the bushes, and for the final 1.5 km, I tried not to trip over my feet as I marvelled at the glacier.

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At the Head of the Valley Earnslaw Burn Track

A high moraine beside the beautiful waterfall on the left provided the perfect lunch spot. I couldn’t believe I had the whole place to myself! I was mesmerized by the number of waterfalls on the face. The waterfall and river roared beside me, and even so, I could hear the cracking ice on the glacier.

Exploring 

After lunch, I headed down to the flat section at the base of the wall. I dropped my pack, grabbed my plb, and crossed the Earnslaw Burn – an easy few steps through shallow water (in the dry, summer conditions).

I headed up a steep, slippery scree slope to the right to check out the ice patch visible from the valley. I’d seen in photos that if you time it right, with the sun on the mountain face, the ice up here shines a crystal-clear blue. But this afternoon in the shade, it was the kind of dirty brown that wouldn’t make it onto social media. Not being that great with caves, and being slightly overwhelmed with the power of the waterfalls thundering around me, I didn’t feel the need to explore any further, and just took it all in.

As I headed back down, I saw a tiny figure exploring the valley below; a French tramper. We walked back to my camp spot together. He had very thoughtfully brought a beer and shared it with me before he started his long journey back to the car.

On my return the following morning, the forest section took me 3 hours 15 minutes (no break). Remember, if you’re not an experienced trampe with great fitness you should allow 4-6 hours from the bush line back to the car park.

Final Thoughts

The Earnslaw Burn track is suitable for experienced, well-equipped trampers. The track will likely be more difficult and take longer than you think. Check the weather before you go, start very early, and take plenty of food and water, a first aid kit/survival blanket, warm clothes and wet weather gear (whatever the weather – it can change in an instant). As with any backcountry tramp, carry a PLB. There is no cell reception, so tell someone where you’re going and when you expect to be out. Final reminder – Leave no trace.

Stay safe, and happy travels everyone, TT x

Click the links below for more walks in Otago:

• Whakaari Conservation Area, Heather Jock & McIntosh Loops – overnight
• Ben Lomond Summit (from Moke Lake), Queenstown – day walk
• Moke Lake, nr Queenstown – half-day walk
• Sugarloaf, Rockburn, Lake Sylvan – day walk
• Gillespie Pass (Young/Wilkin) Circuit – 3 days, 2 nights
• Mt Shrimpton Track, Makarora – half-day walk
• Sawyer Burn Track, Lake Hawea – half-day walk
• Isthmus Peak Track, Lake Wanaka – half-day walk
• Pisa Range – 4 days, 3 nights
• Oteake Conservation Park – 3 days 2 nights